Process for dyeing or lightening keratin fibres in two parts, using an oil-rich alkaline direct emulsion based on a solid nonionic surfactant with an hlb ranging from 1.5 to 10

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a process for dyeing or lightening keratin fibres, comprising the step of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use two compositions (A) and (B) and of applying the said mixture to the said fibres; the said mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of fatty substances relative to the total weight of the composition obtained from the mixing of two compositions (A)+(B); with: —(A) representing a composition in direct emulsion form whose content of oil(s) ii) is at least 30% by weight relative to the weight of composition (A), and comprising: i) at least one nonionic surfactant that is solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, with an HLB ranging from 1.5 to 10; ii) at least one basifying agent; Hi) optionally at least one additional surfactant other than the solid nonionic surfactants (i), iv) optionally at least one dye; and —(B) representing a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. A subject of the present invention is also a multi-compartment device and a composition (A) in direct emulsion form and the ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B). The process according to the invention makes it possible to dye keratin fibres in a powerful, intense and/or homogeneous manner while at the same time being easy to prepare and to apply, since the mixture in the form of an oil-rich emulsion does not run, but remains localized at the point of application. The process of the invention also makes it possible to lighten keratin fibres in a noteworthy manner.

The present invention relates to a process for dyeing or lighteningkeratin fibres such as the hair, using a composition in the form of adirect emulsion comprising at least 30% of oil(s) ii) and which contains0 at least one nonionic surfactant that is solid at room temperature,with an HLB of between 1.5 and 10, ii) at least one oil, iii) at leastone or basifying agent, optionally iv) at least one additionalsurfactant, which is preferably nonionic, with an HLB of greater than10, and optionally v) at least one dye an oxidizing composition, atleast 25% of fatty substances. A subject of the present invention isalso a multi-compartment device and a composition in the form of anoil-rich direct emulsion comprising ingredients i) to v) as definedpreviously.

Among the methods for dyeing human keratin fibres, such as the hair,mention may be made of oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing. Moreparticularly, this dyeing method uses one or more oxidation dyes,usually one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or morecouplers.

In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- orpara-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocycliccompounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly colouredcompounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give accessto coloured species.

The shades obtained with these oxidation bases are often varied bycombining them with one or more couplers, these couplers being chosenespecially from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols,meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indolecompounds.

The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows awide range of colours to be obtained.

It is also possible to add to these compositions direct dyes, which arecoloured, and colouring molecules that have affinity for fibres. Thedirect dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone,nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine andtriarylmethane direct dyes. The presence of such compounds enables theobtained coloration to be further enriched with tints or enables thechromaticity of the obtained coloration to be increased.

Oxidation dyeing processes thus consist in using with these dyecompositions a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent,generally hydrogen peroxide, under alkaline pH conditions in the vastmajority of cases. The role of this oxidizing agent is to reveal thecoloration, via an oxidative condensation reaction between the oxidationdyes.

One of the difficulties arises from the fact that lightening processesare performed under alkaline conditions and that the alkaline agent mostcommonly used is aqueous ammonia. Aqueous ammonia is particularlyadvantageous in this type of process. Specifically, it enablesadjustment of the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH in order toallow activation of the oxidizing agent. This agent also brings aboutswelling of the keratin fibre, with opening of the scales, whichpromotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent and of the oxidationdyes into the fibre and thus increases the efficacy of the reaction.

This basifying agent is highly volatile, and this causes unpleasantnessto the user on account of the strong and fairly unpleasantcharacteristic odour of ammonia that is given off during the procedure.

Moreover, the amount of ammonia given off requires the use of levelswhich are greater than those necessary, in order to compensate for thisloss. This is not without consequence for the user, who not only remainsinconvenienced by the odour but may also be confronted with greaterrisks of intolerance, such as, for example, irritation of the scalp(stinging sensations).

The option purely and simply of replacing all or some of the aqueousammonia with one or more other conventional basifying agents does notresult in compositions that are as effective as those based on aqueousammonia, particularly for the reason that these basifying agents do notprovide sufficient lightening of pigmented fibres in the presence of theoxidizing agent or sufficient coloration in terms of intensity, power,chromaticity or homogeneity of the colour.

One of the objects of the present invention is to propose processes fordyeing and lightening keratin materials, especially keratin fibres suchas the hair, which do not have the drawbacks of those used with theexisting compositions, these drawbacks being caused by the presence oflarge amounts of ammonia, while at the same time remaining at least asefficient as regards the dyeing and lightening and the uniformity ofthis lightening.

Oxidation dyeing must moreover satisfy a certain number of requirements.Thus, it must be free of toxicological drawbacks, it must enable shadesto be obtained in the desired intensity and it must show good resistanceto external attacking factors such as light, bad weather, washing,permanent waving, perspiration and rubbing.

The dyeing process must also be make it possible to cover grey hair and,finally, must be as unselective as possible, i.e. it must produce thesmallest possible colour differences along the same keratin fibre, whichgenerally comprises areas that are differently sensitized (i.e. damaged)from its end to its root.

The compositions used in the dyeing process must also have good mixingand application properties on keratin fibres, and especially goodrheological properties so as not to run down the face, onto the scalp orbeyond the areas that it is proposed to dye, when they are applied.

Compositions in emulsion form must also be stable especially in terms of“phase separation”, i.e. not returning to two phases with the organicphase on one side and the aqueous phase on the other. Now, when acomposition in direct emulsion form is oil-rich, i.e. comprising morethan 30% by weight of oil relative to the total weight of thecomposition, instability of the emulsion often arises, in particular athigh temperature.

As regards processes for lightening keratin fibres, use is made ofaqueous compositions comprising at least one oxidizing agent, underalkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. The role of thisoxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin of the hair, which, dependingon the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to more or lesspronounced lightening of the fibres.

Many attempts have been made in the field of lightening hair dyeing inorder to improve the dyeing properties, for example using adjuvants.However, the choice of these adjuvants is difficult insofar as they mustimprove the dyeing properties of dye compositions without harming theother properties of these compositions. In particular, these adjuvantsmust not harm the keratin fibre-lightening properties and the dyeapplication properties.

Similar problems arise in the case of bleaching compositions, where theaddition of particular adjuvants must not harm the lightening propertiesof the composition or the application properties of the composition,especially the rheological properties.

The aim of the present invention is to obtain novel processes for thedyeing and in particular for the oxidation dyeing or lightening ofkeratin fibres, which do not have the drawbacks of the prior art.

More particularly, the aim of the present invention is to obtain aprocess for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, with improved dyeingproperties, which can achieve the desired lightening and which are easyto prepare and to apply, and especially for which the mixture does notrun but remains localized at the point of application. The term“improved dyeing properties” in particular means an improvement in thepower/intensity and/or uniformity of the dyeing result.

Another aim of the invention is also to obtain a process for lighteninghuman keratin fibres such as the hair, which can achieve the desiredlightening, which is easy to prepare, to mix and to apply, andespecially for which the mixture does not run but remains localized atthe point of application, and which is odourless or has very littleunpleasant odour.

Another aim of the invention is to obtain oil-rich direct emulsions thatare stable especially with respect to temperature, even in the absenceof a thickener.

These aims are achieved by the present invention, one subject of whichis a process for dyeing or lightening keratin fibres, which consists inextemporaneously mixing at the time of use two compositions (A) and (B)and in applying the said mixture to the said fibres; the said mixturecomprising at least 25% by weight of fatty substances relative to thetotal weight of the composition obtained from the mixing of twocompositions (A)+(B); with:

-   -   (A) representing a composition in direct emulsion form whose oil        content is at least 30% by weight relative to the weight of        composition (A), and comprising:        -   i) at least one nonionic surfactant with a calculated HLB            ranging from 1.5 to 10, which is solid at room temperature            and at atmospheric pressure;        -   ii) at least one basifying agent;        -   iii) optionally at least one additional surfactant other            than the solid nonionic surfactants i), which is preferably            nonionic with an HLB of greater than 10;        -   iv) optionally at least one dye; and    -   (B) representing a composition comprising at least one chemical        oxidizing agent.

The invention also relates to a process for dyeing or lightening humankeratin fibres, which consists in using the abovementioned composition.

A subject of the invention is also composition (A) in direct emulsionform as defined previously.

Another subject of the invention is a ready-to-use composition, whichcomprises at least 25% by weight of fatty substances and comprisingingredients 0 and ii), and optionally iii) and iv), as definedpreviously and at least one oxidizing agent.

A subject of the invention is, similarly, a device comprising at leasttwo compartments containing, in a first compartment, composition (A) asdefined previously and, in a second compartment, composition (B) asdefined previously.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge moreclearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of arange of values are included in that range.

The human keratin fibres treated via the process according to theinvention are preferably the hair.

The expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one ormore”.

The term “direct emulsion” means a microscopically heterogeneous andmacroscopically homogeneous mixture of two mutually immiscible liquidsubstances of oil-in-water (O/W) type. The emulsion is composed of anoily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsion” thusmeans true emulsions, which are to be distinguished from microemulsions,which are thermodynamically stable systems, unlike true emulsions. Thesize of the droplets of the dispersed phase of the emulsions of theinvention is preferably between 10 nm and 100 μm and preferably between200 nm and 50 μm. This is the mean diameter D(3.2), which may bemeasured especially using a laser granulometer.

The direct emulsion may be prepared via standard emulsion preparationprocesses that are well known to those skilled in the art.

The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insolublein water at ordinary temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure(760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1% and even morepreferentially 0.1%). They have in their structure at least onehydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequenceof at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances aregenerally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature andpressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbontetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquidpetroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The fatty substances ofthe invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.

The term “oxidizing agent” or “chemical oxidizing agent” according tothe invention means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

I—The Dyeing or Lightening Process of the Invention

The dyeing or lightening process according to the invention thusconsists in applying the mixture of the two compositions (A) and (B)prepared just before use, particularly between 1 second and 15 minutesand preferentially 5 minutes before use, and in applying to the wet ordry human keratin fibres.

Composition (A) in direct emulsion form has an oil content of at least30% by weight and preferentially of at least 50% by weight relative tothe total weight of composition (A), and comprises:

-   -   i) at least one nonionic surfactant that is solid at room        temperature and at atmospheric pressure, with an HLB ranging        from 1.5 to 10;    -   ii) at least one basifying agent;    -   iii) optionally at least one additional surfactant other than        the solid nonionic surfactants i), which is preferably nonionic        with an HLB of greater than 10;    -   iv) optionally at least one dye; and        composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing        agent.

When the process according to the invention is solely a lighteningprocess, it does not incorporate a direct dye or an oxidation dyeprecursor (bases and couplers) usually used for the dyeing of humankeratin fibres, or alternatively, if it does use direct dyes, the totalcontent of the said dyes does not exceed 0.001% by weight relative tothe weight of the composition once the mixing of compositions (A) and(B) has been performed.

Specifically, at such a content, only the composition derived from themixing of (A) and (B) would possibly be dyed, i.e. no dyeing effectwould be observed on the keratin fibres.

Preferentially, composition (A) does not contain any oxidation bases,coupler or direct dye when the process of the invention is solely aprocess for lightening keratin fibres.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the processis a process for dyeing keratin fibres using the mixture of compositions(A) and (B) as defined previously.

When the process according to the invention is a dyeing process, it usesat least one dye and more particularly direct dyes or oxidation dyeprecursors as defined below. If it uses direct dyes, the total contentof the said direct dyes exceeds 0.001% by weight relative to the weightof the composition once the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) has beenperformed.

Preferentially, composition (A) contains oxidation bases, couplersand/or direct dyes.

The composition obtained from the mixing of (A) and (B) according to theinvention is then left in place for a time usually ranging from oneminute to one hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the process is conventionally between roomtemperature (between 15 and 25° C.) and 80° C. and preferably betweenroom temperature and 60° C.

After the treatment, the human keratin fibres are optionally rinsed withwater, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water,before being dried or left to dry.

The Ingredients

(i)—Solid Nonionic Surfactant with an HLB Ranging from 1.5 to 10:

Composition (A) of the process of the invention comprises at least onesurfactant with an HLB ranging from 1.5 to 10, which is solid at roomtemperature and at atmospheric pressure (25° C.; 1 atmosphere=760 mmHg).

The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes thehydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant.

The HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactant(s) usedaccording to the invention is the HLB according to Griffin, defined inthe publication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256 orthe experimentally determined HLB is as described in the book by theauthors F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled “Galenica 5: Les systèmesdispersés—Tome I—Agents de surface et émulsions—Chapitre IV—Notions deHLB et de HLB critique, pages 153-194—paragraph 1.1.2. Détermination deHLB par voie expérimentale [Experimental determination of HLB], pages164-180.

It is preferably the calculated HLB values that should be taken intoaccount.

The calculated HLB is defined as being the following coefficient:

calculated HLB=20×molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass.

For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds tothe oxyethylene units condensed onto the fatty alcohol and thecalculated HLB then corresponds to the Griffin HLB defined in thepublication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. For anester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as beingbeyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s). Needless tosay, this magnitude is additive, and for a mixture of molecules, thecalculated HLB corresponds to the mass-weighted average of thecalculated HLB values for each molecule.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the meltingpoint of the nonionic surfactant(s) with a calculated HLB ranging from1.5 to 10 is greater than 30° C. and more preferentially greater than40° C.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants (i) that may bementioned include:

-   -   oxyalkylenated (C₈-C₂₄)alkylphenols;    -   saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated        C₈-C₃₀ alcohols,    -   saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally        oxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀ amides;    -   esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₈-C₃₀        acids and of polyethylene glycols;    -   optionally polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or        unsaturated, linear or branched C₈-C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol;    -   polyglycerolated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or        branched C₈-C₃₀ acids;    -   saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;    -   C₈-C₃₀ alkyl glucosides;    -   condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter        alia, alone or as mixtures;    -   oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones.

The surfactants bear a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or ofpropylene oxide preferably ranging from 1 to 100, better still from 2 to10 and even better still from 2 to 6.

As examples of solid nonionic compounds that may be used in the presentinvention, mention may be made of the following compounds:

Calculated INCI name Commercial reference HLB Steareth-2 Brij 72(Uniqema) 4.9* Steareth-3 Isoxal 5 (Vevy) 6.6* Steareth-4 Nikkol BS-4(Nikko) 7.9* Steareth-5 Jeecol SA-5 (Jeen) 9.0* Steareth-6 Emalex 606(Nihon Emulsion) 9.9* Ceteth-2 Brij 52 (Uniqema) 5.3* Ceteth-3 Emalex103 (Nihon Emulsion) 7.1* Ceteth-4 Lipocol C-4 (Lipo) 8.4* Ceteth-5Volpo C5 (Croda) 9.5* Ceteareth-2 Volpo CS2 (Croda) 5.1* Ceteareth-3Jeecol CS-3 (Jeen) 6.8* Ceteareth-4 Lipocol SC-4 (Lipo) 8.1* Ceteareth-5Volpo CS5 (Croda) 9.2* Beheneth-5 Nikkol BB-5 (Nikko) 8.1* Cocamide MEAComperlan 100 (Cognis) 4.8 Cocamide MIPA Ninol M-10 (Stepan) 5.6Cocamide DEA Comperlan KD (Cognis) 7.1 Stearamide MEA Monamid S(Uniqema) 3.7 Stearamide DEA Lipamide S (Lipo) 5.6 Myristamide DEAJeemide MRCA (Jeen) 6.6 Myristamide MEA Witcamide MM (Witco) 4.4Polyglyceryl-2 distearate Emalex DSG-2 (Ikeda) 4.7 Polyglyceryl-3distearate Cithrol 2623 (Croda) 6.2 Polyglyceryl-2 stearate Nikkol DGMS(Nikko) 7.6 Polyglyceryl-3 stearate Radiasurf 7248 (Atofina) 9.4 PEG-2Stearate Sedefos 75 (Gattefosse) 5.6 PEG-3 Stearate Tegin D 1102(Goldschmidt) 7.2 PEG-4 Stearate Cithrol 2MS (Croda) 8.4 Sorbitandistearate Sorbon S-66 (Toho) 4.7 Sorbitan palmitate Span 40 (Uniqema)8.1 Sorbitan stearate Span 60 (Uniqema) 7.6 Sorbitan tristearate Span 65(Uniqema) 3.3 Myristyl glucoside Montanov 14 (SEPPIC) 9.5 Cetearylglucoside Tego Care CG 90 (Degussa) 8.6 Arachidyl glucoside Montanov 202(SEPPIC) 7.8 *corresponding to the calculated HLB according to theGriffin method

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB ranging from 1.5 to10, which are solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, arechosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, theoxyalkylene units more particularly being oxyethylene or oxypropyleneunits, or a combination thereof.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise anyoxypropylene units.

In accordance with one preferred embodiment of the invention, theoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are selected from oxyethylenatedC₈-C₃₀ alcohols comprising from 1 to 6 mol of ethylene oxide.

More preferably, the said surfactants are chosen from solid nonionicsurfactants with an HLB ranging from 2.5 to 8.

According to the invention, emulsion (A) preferably contains from 0.1%to 30% by weight of one or more surfactants with an HLB ranging from 1.5to 10, which are solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure,even more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better stillfrom 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of emulsion (A).

Emulsion (A) may contain other surfactants with an HLB of greater than10. In this case, the surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic, cationic,anionic and amphoteric surfactants and preferably from nonionic andanionic surfactants.

However, according to one particular embodiment, emulsion (A) does notcontain any nonionic surfactants other than that or those with an HLB ofbetween 1.5 and 10, which are solid at room temperature and atatmospheric pressure.

Composition (B) may also contain one or more nonionic surfactants withan HLB ranging from 1.5 to 10, which are solid at room temperature andat atmospheric pressure, the content thereof possibly ranging from 0.1%to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and even moreparticularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight ofcomposition (B).

In the ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing ofcompositions (A) and (B), the content of nonionic surfactants with anHLB ranging from 1.5 to 10, which are solid at room temperature and atatmospheric pressure, may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferablyfrom 0.5% to 20% by weight and even more particularly from 1% to 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the mixture of compositions (A)and (B).

(ii)—The Oils:

The composition of part (A) of the process of the invention comprises atleast 30% by weight of oil(s). The emulsion (A) may contain one or moreoils of different nature.

The term “oil” means a “fatty substance” that is liquid, i.e. that iscapable of flowing under the action of its own weight at roomtemperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (10⁵ Pa).

Preferably, the viscosity at a temperature of 25° C. and at a shear rateof 1 s⁻¹ of the oil is between 10⁻³ Pa·s and 2 Pa·s. It may be measuredusing a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with cone-plate geometry or anequivalent machine.

Preferentially, composition (A) comprises at least 30% by weight ofoil(s) and preferably at least 50% by weight of oil(s) relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

In particular, the oils are chosen from C₆-C₁₆ lower alkanes;non-silicone oils of animal origin; glycerides of plant or syntheticorigin; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,bearing more than 16 carbon atoms; fluoro oils; liquid fatty alcohols;liquid fatty esters; non-salified liquid fatty acids; silicone oils; ormixtures thereof.

The term “non-silicone oil” means an oil not containing any siliconatoms (Si) and the term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at leastone silicon atom.

As regards the lower alkanes, these alkanes comprise from 6 to 16 carbonatoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that maybe mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such asisohexadecane and isodecane.

An example of a non-silicone oil of animal origin that may be mentionedis perhydrosqualene.

Glycerides of plant or synthetic origin that may be mentioned includeliquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms,for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively,for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseedoil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, araraoil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, forinstance those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those soldunder the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

As regards the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or syntheticorigin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made mostparticularly of volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, andderivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly,polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

The fluoro oils may be chosen especially fromperfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, soldunder the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFLFluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanessuch as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under thenames PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctylsold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem;nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane;perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols, thus different from the solid fatty alcohols(i), which are suitable for use in the invention are selected moreparticularly from unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include2-octyldodecan-1-ol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol,2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.

The fatty acids that may be used in the context of the invention aremore particularly chosen from unsaturated or branched carboxylic acidscomprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from oleic acid, linoleicacid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

As regards the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, whichare different from the solid esters (ii) and different from theglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters ofsaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono- orpolyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the estersbeing greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among thealcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derivedis branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may bemade of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such asisopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexylisononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C₄-C₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C₁-C₂₂alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylicacids and of C₄-C₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxynon-sugar alcohols may also be used.

Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropylsebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate;diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecylerucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryltrilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleylcitrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl,isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetylor 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycoldicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyllaurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar estersand diesters of C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. It isrecalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-basedcompounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehydeor ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. Thesesugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include saccharose,glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose,arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkylderivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the groupcomprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars describedpreviously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, thesecompounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugatedcarbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-,tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates,palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates,linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as,in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixedesters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and inparticular of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates,stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates oroleostearates.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the nameGlucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Among the sugar esters, it is also possible to use pentaerythritylesters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityltetraoctanoate, and caprylic and capric hexaesters as a mixture withdipentaerythritol.

The term “liquid silicone” means an organopolysiloxane that is liquid atordinary temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg;i.e. 1.013×10⁵ Pa).

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes,especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquidpolyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicones may also be organomodified. The organomodified siliconesthat may be used in accordance with the invention are liquid siliconesas defined previously, comprising in their structure one or moreorganofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's“Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They maybe volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen fromthose having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and evenmore particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferablyfrom 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example,octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VolatileSilicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia,decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, anddodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 byMomentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of thedimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes withorganosilicon compounds, such as the mixture ofoctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol(50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane andoxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 siliconatoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under thename SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to thiscategory are also described in the article published in Cosmetics andToiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers: VolatileSilicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones ismeasured at 25° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used.

These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen frompolydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly ofpolydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limitingmanner, of the following commercial products:

-   -   the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®        oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;    -   the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;    -   the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as        DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s;    -   the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the        SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containingdimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA),such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes,especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examplesthat may be mentioned include the products sold under the followingnames:

-   -   the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;    -   the oils of the series Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 from Rhodia;    -   the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;    -   the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product        PK20;    -   certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF        1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.    -   The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain        polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus        be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the        oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.

According to one preferred variant, the oil(s) are chosen from C₆-C₁₆lower alkanes; glycerides of plant or synthetic origin; linear orbranched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing morethan 16 carbon atoms; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; ormixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, the oil(s) are chosen from C₆-C₁₆ loweralkanes; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origincontaining more than 16 carbon atoms; liquid fatty alcohols; or mixturesthereof.

Preferably, the oil(s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly,polydecenes, octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

In the ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing ofcompositions (A) and (B), the amount of oil may represent from 7.5% to60% of the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the ready-to-usecomposition resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B)comprises at least 25% of oil(s).

Composition (B) may comprise at least one oil. If it contains oils, thetotal content thereof may range from 0.5% to 40% of the weight ofcomposition (B).

(iii)—The Basifying Agents:

The process according to the invention also uses one or more basifyingagents.

The basifying agent(s) may be mineral or organic or hybrid.

The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueousammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium orpotassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodiumhydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.

The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amineswith a pK_(b) at 25° C. of less than 12, preferably less than 10 andeven more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it is thepK_(b) corresponding to the function of highest basicity. In addition,the organic amines do not comprise any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chainscomprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic basifying agent(s) are chosen, for example, fromalkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines,amino acids and the compounds of formula (I) below:

in which formula (I) W is a C₁-C₆ divalent alkylene radical optionallysubstituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a C₁-C₆ alkyl radical,and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, orNR_(u); R_(x), R_(y), R_(z), R_(t) and R_(u), which may be identical ordifferent, represent a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₆ alkyl or C₁-C₆hydroxyalkyl or C₁-C₆ aminoalkyl radical.

Examples of amines of formula (I) that may be mentioned include1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary,secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branchedC₁-C₈ alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines,dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical ordifferent C₁-C₄ hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable forperforming the invention.

Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made ofmonoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine,monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine,2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine,2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol,3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

More particularly, the amino acids that may be used are of natural orsynthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at leastone acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid,sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions. The aminoacids may be in neutral or ionic form.

As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may bemade especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine,ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine,glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine,N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan,tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising anadditional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureidofunction.

Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding toformula (II) below:

in which formula (II) R represents a group chosen from:

The compounds corresponding to formula (II) are histidine, lysine,arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclictype. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the aminoacids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine,imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.

The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Asamino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mentionmay be made especially of carnosine, anserine and baleine.

The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising aguanidine function. As amines of this type that may be used in thepresent invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned asan amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine,1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin,agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid,4-guanidinobutyric acid and2-[amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

Preferably, the organic amine present in composition (A) of theinvention is an alkanolamine. Even more preferentially, the basifyingagent is monoethanolamine (MEA).

Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the aminesmentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloricacid.

Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be used inparticular.

Advantageously, compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention andthe ready-to-use composition have a content of basifying agent(s)ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 20% byweight relative to the weight of the composition obtained from themixing of (A) and (B).

Preferably, composition (B) does not contain any basifying agent.

According to one particular embodiment, the process according to theinvention preferably does not use aqueous ammonia, or a salt thereof, asbasifying agent. According to this particular embodiment, if, however,it were used in the process, its content would not exceed 0.03% byweight (expressed as NH₃) and preferably would not exceed 0.01% byweight relative to the weight of the composition obtained from themixing of (A) and (B). Preferably, if composition (A) comprises aqueousammonia, or a salt thereof, then the amount of basifying agent(s) isgreater than that of the aqueous ammonia (expressed as NH₃).

(iii)—Additional Surfactants:

According to one particular embodiment, the process of the invention andthe composition of the invention may comprise at least one additionalsurfactant other than the solid nonionic surfactants (i).

In particular, the additional surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionicsurfactants or from anionic, amphoteric, cationic or nonionicsurfactants, and preferentially nonionic surfactants.

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic orionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups arepreferably chosen from the groups —C(O)OH, —C(O)O⁻, —SO₃H, —S(O)₂O⁻,—OS(O)₂OH, —OS(O)₂O⁻, —P(O)OH₂, —P(O)₂O⁻, —P(O)O₂ ⁻, —P(OH)₂, ═P(O)OH,—P(OH)O⁻, ═P(O)O⁻, ═POH, ═PO⁻, the anionic parts comprising a cationiccounterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal or anammonium.

Mention may be made, as examples of anionic surfactants that may be usedin the composition according to the invention, of alkyl sulfates, alkylether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates,alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates,alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates,polyglycoside polycarboxylic acid and alkyl monoester salts, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ethercarboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts ofalkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salifiedforms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all thesecompounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl groupdenoting a phenyl group.

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C₆-C₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylicacids can be selected from C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C₆-C₂₄alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆-C₂₄ alkylpolyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen fromalkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferablythe sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particularamino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as themagnesium salts.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned includemonoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts,monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts,2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediolsalts and tris(hydroxyl-methyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodiumor magnesium salts are preferably used.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, use is preferably made of(C₆-C₂₄)alkyl sulfates, (C₆-C₂₄)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal,ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture ofthese compounds.

It is particularly preferred to use (C₁₂-C₂₀)alkyl sulfates,(C₁₂-C₂₀)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxideunits, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcoholand alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Betterstill, use is made of sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol ofethylene oxide.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferablynonsilicone, that may be used in the present invention may especially bederivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiaryamines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branchedchain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivativescontaining at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate,sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be madein particular of (C₈-C₂₀)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines,(C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₃-C₈)alkylbetaines and(C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₆-C₈)alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic aminederivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be madeof the compounds of respective structures (III) and (IV) below:

R_(a)—C(O)—NH—CH₂—CH₂—N⁺(R_(b))(R_(c))—CH₂C(O)O⁻, M⁺  (III)

in which formula (III):

-   -   R_(a) represents a C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from        an acid R_(a)C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut        oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;    -   R_(b) represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and    -   R_(c) represents a carboxymethyl group;    -   M⁺ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal        or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an        ion derived from an organic amine, and

R_(a)—C(O)—NH—CH₂—CH₂—N(B)(B′)  (IV)

in which formula (IV):

-   -   B represents the group —CH₂—CH₂—O—X′;    -   B′ represents the group —(CH₂)_(z)Y′, with z=1 or 2;    -   X′ represents the group —CH₂—C(O)OH, —CH₂—C(O)OZ′,        —CH₂—CH₂—C(O)OH, —CH₂—CH₂—C(O)OZ′, or a hydrogen atom;    -   Y′ represents the group —C(O)OH, —C(O)OZ′, —CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃H or        the group —CH₂—CH(OH)—SO₃—Z′;    -   Z′ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal        or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an        ion derived from an organic amine;    -   R_(a′) represents a C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid        R_(a)—C(O)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed        linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C₁₇ and its iso form,        or an unsaturated C₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition,1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodiumlauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodiumcapryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodiumlauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodiumcapryloamphodipropionate, lauroampho-dipropionic acid andcocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold bythe company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use ispreferably made of (C₈-C₂₀)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, and(C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₃-C₈)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine,and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric orzwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine andcocoylbetaine.

The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the compositions of thepresent invention comprise, for example, salts of optionallypolyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines,quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentionedinclude:

-   -   those corresponding to the general formula (V) below:

in which formula (V) the groups R₈ to R₁₁, which may be identical ordifferent, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprisingfrom 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl oralkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₈ to R₁₁ comprising from 8 to 30carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphaticgroups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen,nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C₁-C₃₀ alkyl, C₁-C₃₀alkoxy, polyoxy(C₂-C₆)alkylene, C₁-C₃₀ alkylamide,(C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C₆)alkyl, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylacetate, C₁-C₃₀hydroxyalkyl, X⁻ is an anionic counterion chosen from halides,phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates, and (C₁-C₄)alkyl-or (C₁-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VII), preference isgiven firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instancedialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which thealkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, inparticular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammoniumchloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammoniumchloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammoniummethosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate ordistearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly,palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride orstearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold underthe name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;

-   -   quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of        formula (VI) below:

in which formula (VI) R₁₂ represents an alkyl or alkenyl groupcomprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivativesof tallow, R₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or analkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R₁₄represents a C₁-C₄ alkyl group, R₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or aC₁-C₄ alkyl group, X⁻ represents an anion counterion chosen fromhalides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates and(C₁-C₄)alkyl- or (C₁-C₄)alkylaryl-sulfonates. R₁₂ and R₁₃ preferablydenote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups comprising from 12 to 21carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R₁₄ denotes amethyl group, and R₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold,for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

-   -   quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, particularly of        formula (VII) below:

in which formula (VII) R₁₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising for about16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted withone or more oxygen atoms; R₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl groupcomprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group—(CH₂)₃—N⁺(R_(16a))(R_(17a))(R_(18a)); R_(16a), R_(17a), R_(18a), R₁₈,R₁₉, R₂₀ and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromhydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X⁻is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates,nitrates, (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfates and (C₁-C₄)alkyl- or(C₁-C₄)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by thecompany Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the companyFinetex (Quaternium 75);

-   -   quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester        functions, such as those of formula (VIII) below:

in which formula (VIII):

-   -   R₂₂ is chosen from C₁-C₆ alkyl and C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or        dihydroxyalkyl groups;    -   R₂₃ is chosen from:        -   the group

-   -   -   linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₂₂            hydrocarbon-based groups R₂₇,        -   a hydrogen atom;

    -   R₂₅ is selected from:        -   the group

-   -   -   linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₆            hydrocarbon-based groups R₂₉,        -   a hydrogen atom;

    -   R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are        chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₂₁        hydrocarbon-based groups;

    -   r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers        ranging from 2 to 6;

    -   r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0        or 1, with r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t

    -   y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

    -   x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers        ranging from 0 to 10;

    -   X⁻ represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion; with        the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0        then R₂₃ denotes R₂₇, and that when z is 0 then R₂₅ denotes R₂₉.

The alkyl groups R₂₂ may be linear or branched, and more particularlylinear.

Preferably, R₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropylgroup, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

When R₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₇, it may be long and maycontain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₉, it preferably contains 1 to 3carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different,are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₁-C₂₁hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated C₁₁-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equalto 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anionic counterion X⁻ is preferably a halide, preferably such aschloride, bromide or iodide; a (C₁-C₄)alkyl sulfate or a (C₁-C₄)alkyl-or (C¹—C₄)alkylaryl-sulfonate. However, use may be made ofmethanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from anorganic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatiblewith the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anionic counterion X⁻ is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate and or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to theinvention, of the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) in which:

-   -   R₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,    -   x and y are equal to 1,    -   z is equal to 0 or 1,    -   r, s and t are equal to 2,    -   R₂₃ is chosen from:

-   -   -   the group        -   methyl, ethyl or C₁₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups,        -   a hydrogen atom,

    -   R₂₅ is chosen from:

-   -   -   the group        -   a hydrogen atom,

    -   R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are        chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇        hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or        branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl        groups.

    -   Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (VIII), examples that may be mentionedinclude salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, ofdiacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,monoacyl-oxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,triacyloxyethylmethylammonium ormonoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. Theacyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtainedmore particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil.When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may beidentical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification oftriethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or analkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fattyacids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or bytransesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification isfollowed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as analkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate,preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methylpara-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by thecompany Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by thecompany Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, amixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with aweight majority of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least oneester function that are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,874,554 and U.S.Pat. No. 4,137,180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride soldby KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester functioncontain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the compositionaccording to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choosecetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium anddipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof,and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, anddipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositionused according to the invention and that are different from thesurfactants (i) are in particular nonionic surfactants with an HLB ofgreater than 10, described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactantsby M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991,pp. 116-178. They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated,polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated alcohols, α-diols and(C₁-C₂₀)alkylphenols, containing at least one fatty chain comprising,for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxideand/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 6 to 50,and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to30.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propyleneoxide, optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fattyacid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionallyoxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, derivativesof N-alkylglucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides andamine oxides.

The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen frompolyoxyalkylenated and polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. Theoxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropyleneunits, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentionedinclude:

-   -   oxyalkylenated (C₈-C₂₄)alkylphenols;    -   saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated        C₈-C₃₀ alcohols;    -   saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated        C₈-C₃₀ amides;    -   esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₈-C₃₀        acids and of polyethylene glycols;    -   polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or        branched C₈-C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol;    -   saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;    -   condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter        alia, alone or as mixtures;    -   optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides;    -   optionally oxypropylenated oxyethylenated silicones.

The surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or ofpropylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 andpreferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants donot comprise any oxypropylene units.

In accordance with one preferred embodiment of the invention, theadditional oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen fromoxyethylenated C₈-C₃₀ alcohols comprising from 6 to 100 mol of ethyleneoxide; polyoxyethylenated esters of linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated C₈-C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 mol ofethylene oxide.

As examples of polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolatedor polyglycerolated C₈-C₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, the polyglycerolated C₈-C₄₀ alcohols correspond to thefollowing formula:

R₂₉O—[CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O]_(m)—H

in which R₂₉ represents a linear or branched C₈-C₄₀ and preferablyC₈-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from4 to 30 and preferably from 4 to 10.

As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of theinvention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol ofglycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), oleyl alcoholcontaining 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether),cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcoholcontaining 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol ofglycerol.

The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that thevalue of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in acommercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcoholsmay coexist in the form of a mixture.

Preferably, the additional surfactant used in the process of theinvention is a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of greater than 10,comprising oxyalkylene units, particularly oxyethylene or oxypropyleneunits, or a combination thereof, more particularly oxyethylene units.

Non-limiting examples of surfactants with an HLB of greater than orequal to 10 are especially given in the publication entitledMcCutcheon's Emulsifiers & Detergents, 1998 International Edition, MCPublishing Company, in the chapter entitled HLB Index.

Commercial compounds that may be mentioned include:

Cremophor A6 (BASF) Genapol O-080 (HOECHST) Genapol T-080 (HOECHST)Kotilen-O/3 (KOLB) Lutensol AP 7 (BASF) Tween 85 (ICI) Tebecid S8(BOHME) Berol 047 (BEROL NOBEL) Soprophor 860P (RHONE-POULENC) Dobanol45-7 (SHELL) Prox-onic HR-030 (PROTEX) Ethonic 1214-6,5 (ETHYL)Prox-onic OA-1/09 (PROTEX) Cremophor S9 (BASF) Imbentin AG/128/080(KOLB) Serdox NOG 440 (SERVO) Softanol 70 (B.P. CHEMICALS) Renex 707(ICI) Simulsol 830 NP (SEPPIC) Brij 76 (ICI) Tebenal T10 (BOHME) VolpoS-10 (CRODA) Eumulgin O10 (HENKEL) Berol 199 (BEROL NOBEL) Triton N-87(ROHM & HAAS) Polychol 15 (CRODA) Brij 56 (ICI) Simulsol 56 (SEPPIC)Cremophor A11 (BASF) Eumulgin 286 (HENKEL) Genapol T-110 (HOECHST)Sandoxylate FOL12 (SANDOZ) Bio soft HR 40 (STEPAN) Berol 046 (BEROLNOBEL) Eumulgin B1 (HENKEL) Dobanol 45-11 (SHELL) Aqualose W20(WESTBROCK LANOLIN) Ethylan DP (HARCROS) Mergital OC12 (HENKEL) Simulsol1230 NP (SEPPIC) Tagat R1 (GOLDSCHMIDT) Tagat I 2 (GOLDSCHMIDT) TebecidRM20 (BOHME) Imbentin AG/168/150 (KOLB) Prox-onic LA-1/012 (PROTEX)Etocas 60 (CRODA) Radiasurf 7157 (OLEOFINA) Genapol T-180 (HOECHST)Montanox 80 (SEPPIC) Serdox NJAD 20 (SERVO) Tagat R60 (GOLDSCHMIDT)Berol 278 (BEROL NOBEL) Brij 78 (ICI) Simulsol 98 (SEPPIC) Montanox 40(SEPPIC) Brij 58 (ICI) Aqualose L75 (WESTBROCK LANOLIN) Atlas G-1471(ICI) Berol 281 (BEROL NOBEL) Berol 292 (BEROL NOBEL) Nafolox 20-22 30OE(CONDEA) Genapol C-200 (HOECHST) Myrj 51 (ICI) Simulsol PS 20 (SEPPIC)Tergitol 15 S 20 (UNION CARBIDE) Synperonic PE P75 (ICI) Montanox 20(SEPPIC) Myrj 52 (ICI) Simulsol 3030 NP (SEPPIC) Imbentin AG/168/400(KOLB) Rhodia Surf NP40 (RHONE-POULENC) Incropol CS-50 (CRODA) ServiroxOEG 90/50 (SERVO) Prox-onic HR-0200 (PROTEX) Berol 243 (BEROL NOBEL)Imbentin N/600 (KOLB) Antarox CO 980 (RHONE-POULENC) Antarox CO 987(RHONE-POULENC) Berol 08 (BEROL NOBEL) Brij 700 (ICI) Prox-onic NP-0100(PROTEX) Rs-55-100 (HEFTI) Imbentin AG/168S/950 (KOLB) Synperonic PE F87(ICI) Alkasurf BA-PE80 (RHONE-POULENC) Synperonic PE F38 (ICI)

In composition (A) and in the ready-to-use composition, the amount ofnonionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.1% to30% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition under consideration, i.e.composition (A) or the ready-to-use composition (mixture (A)+(B)).

Composition (B) may comprise at least one surfactant. If it containssurfactants, their total content may range from 0.1% to 30% by weightand better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weightof composition (B).

(iv)—The Dyes:

The process according to the invention may optionally comprise one ormore dyes chosen from a) oxidation dyes and b) direct dyes, or mixturesof a) and b) that will be detailed hereinbelow.

When the process according to the invention is intended for dyeingkeratin fibres, composition (A) comprises one or more dyes andpreferably a) at least one oxidation dye.

The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation basesoptionally combined with one or more couplers.

By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen frompara-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols,ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition saltsthereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, arepara-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine,2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine,4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline,N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline,4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline,2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine,2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-(4′-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine,N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine,2β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine,2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene,3-hydroxy-1-(4′-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereofwith an acid.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine,para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition saltsthereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, forexample, areN,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol,N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N′-bis(ethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition saltsthereof.

Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, arepara-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol,4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol,4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol,4-amino-2-methoxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol,4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol,and the addition salts thereof with an acid.

Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.

Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, arepyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, forinstance 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridineand 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.

Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present inventionare the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the additionsalts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801308. Examples that may be mentioned includepyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid,2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol,2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol,2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol,(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol,3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine,pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine,7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine,5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol and3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, and the addition salts thereof.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as2,4,5,6-tetraminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine,2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomericforms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compoundsdescribed in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applicationsWO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole,3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4′-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole,4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole,4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole,1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole,4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole,4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole,4-amino-5-(2′-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole,3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole,3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole,3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the additionsalts thereof. 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.

A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even morepreferentially 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a saltthereof.

Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned includediamino-N,N-dihydro-pyrazolopyrazolones and especially those describedin patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compoundsand the addition salts thereof:2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2-amino-3-di methylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.

2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a saltthereof will preferably be used.

4,5-Diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a saltthereof will preferentially be used as heterocyclic bases.

Composition (A) according to the invention may optionally comprise oneor more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used inthe dyeing of keratin fibres.

Among these couplers, mention may be made especially ofmeta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols,naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also theaddition salts thereof.

Mention may be made, for example, of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene,1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene,2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)-benzene,2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene,1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline,3-ureido-1-dimethylamino-benzene, sesamol,1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol,2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole,4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine,6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxy-pyridine,1-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene,2,6-bis(β-hydroxy-ethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline,2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole,2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof with anacid, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers thatmay be used in the context of the invention are especially chosen fromthe addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides,hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates,tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The oxidation base(s) each advantageously represent from 0.001% to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, andpreferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight ofcomposition (A) and of the ready-to-use composition.

The coupler(s), if they are present, each advantageously represent from0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weightof composition (A) and of the ready-to-use composition.

Composition (A) according to the invention may optionally comprise b)one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, chosen from anionic andnonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species, either assole dyes or in addition to the oxidation dye(s).

Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azodirect dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanins, hemicyanins andstyryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes;tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, andnatural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.

Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to theinvention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin,carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde,indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Extractsor decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particularhenna-based poultices or extracts may also be used.

When they are present, the direct dye(s) more particularly representfrom 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weightof the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the process is adyeing process and composition (A) and similarly the ready-to-usecomposition contain at least one dye and preferably at least oneoxidation dye as defined previously.

Compositions (A) and (B) and the ready-to-use composition may alsocontain additional ingredients.

The Additional Solid Fatty Substances:

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsion(A) may contain at least one fatty alcohol that is solid at roomtemperature and at atmospheric pressure. The term “fatty alcohol” meansa long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 34 carbon atoms andcomprising at least one hydroxyl group OH.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R—OH with R beinga linear alkyl group comprising from 12 to 34 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature, which aresuitable for use in the invention, are more particularly chosen from:

-   -   lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol);    -   myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol);    -   cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol);    -   stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol);    -   arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol);    -   behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol);    -   lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol);    -   ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol);    -   montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol);    -   myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol); and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular mode of the invention, the solid fattyalcohols of structure R—OH are such that R as defined previouslycomprises from 12 to 30 and better still 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

Even more particularly, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from cetylalcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such ascetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

Preferably, the content of fatty alcohols that are solid at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure in the composition (A) according tothe invention is between 0.2% and 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to15% by weight and even more particularly from 1% to 10% by weightrelative to the total weight of composition (A).

Composition (B) may also contain one or more solid fatty alcohols. If itcontains one or more solid fatty alcohols, the content thereof may rangefrom 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight andeven more particularly between 1% and 10% by weight relative to thetotal weight of composition (B).

Preferably, the content of fatty alcohols that are solid at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure in the ready-to-use compositionaccording to the invention ranges between 0.2% and 20% by weight,preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and even more particularly from 1%to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

Fatty Substances Other than the Oils and the Solid Fatty Alcohols:

Compositions (A) and (B) and the ready-to-use composition may alsocontain additional fatty substances other than the solid fatty alcoholsand the oils mentioned previously.

The additional fatty substance(s) used in the compositions according tothe invention may also be fatty substances that are non-oily at roomtemperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e.1.013×10⁵ Pa).

The term “non-oily” preferably means a solid compound or a compound thathas a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa·s at a temperature of 25° C. and ata shear rate of 1 s⁻¹.

More particularly, the non-oily fatty substances other than the solidfatty alcohols described previously are chosen from synthetic esters offatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, natural waxes, silicone waxes,fatty amides and fatty ethers, which are non-oily and preferably solid.

As regards the non-oily synthetic esters of fatty acids and/or of fattyalcohols, mention may be made especially of solid esters derived fromC₉-C₂₆ fatty acids and from C₉-C₂₆ fatty alcohols.

Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate,isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate,cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octylpelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate,myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

The natural wax(es) are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelillawax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes such as olivetree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxessuch as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the companyBertin (France), and animal waxes such as beeswaxes or modifiedbeeswaxes (cerabellina).

Solid fatty amides that may be mentioned include ceramides. Theceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may beused in the compositions according to the invention are known per se andare natural or synthetic molecules that may correspond to the generalformula (IX) below:

in which formula (IX):

-   -   R₃₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl        radical, derived from C₁₄-C₃₀ fatty acids, this radical possibly        being substituted with a hydroxyl group or a hydroxyl group in        the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated        C₁₆-C₃₀ fatty acid;    -   R₃₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical (glycosyl)n,        (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl, in which n is an integer        ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;    -   R₃₃ denotes a C₁₅-C₂₆ hydrocarbon-based group which is saturated        or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this        group to be substituted with one or more C₁-C₁₄ alkyl groups;        it being understood that, in the case of these natural ceramides        or glycoceramides, R₃ may also denote a C₁₅-C₂₆ α-hydroxyalkyl        radical, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a        C₁₆-C₃₀ α-hydroxy acid.

The ceramides that are preferred in the context of the present inventionare those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol., Vol. 123, 1381-1384,1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.

The ceramide(s) that are more particularly preferred according to theinvention are the compounds for which R₃₁ denotes a saturated orunsaturated alkyl derived from C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acids; R₃₂ denotes ahydrogen atom and R₃₃ denotes a saturated linear C₁₅ radical.

Such compounds are, for example:

-   -   N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine,    -   N-oleyldihydrosphingosine,    -   N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine,    -   N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine,    -   N-behenyldihydrosphingosine,

or mixtures of these compounds.

Even more preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R₃₁ denotesa saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids; R₃₂denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R₃₃ denotes a group—CH═CH—(CH₂)₁₂—CH₃.

Other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to theinvention are especially marine waxes such as those sold by the companySophim under the reference M82, and waxes of polyethylene or ofpolyolefins in general, and organopolysiloxane waxes or resins.

The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with theinvention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the followingunits:

R₂SiO_(2/2), R₃SiO_(1/2), RSiO_(3/2) and SiO_(4/2)

in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Amongthese products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those inwhich R denotes a C₁-C₄ lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under thename Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones ofdimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type resinssold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 bythe company Shin-Etsu.

The non-oily fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and especiallydicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

Preferably, the non-oily fatty substance(s) other than the solid fattyalcohols are present in compositions (A) and (B) or in the ready-to-usecomposition in a content ranging from 0 to 30%.

The Oxidizing Agents:

The oxidizing composition (B) is preferably an aqueous composition. Inparticular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferablymore than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than20% by weight of water.

Composition (B) may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosenfrom those listed previously; these solvents more particularlyrepresenting, when they are present, from 1% to 40% by weight andpreferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of theoxidizing composition.

The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or moreacidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may bementioned include inorganic or organic acids, for instance hydrochloricacid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, forinstance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, andsulfonic acids.

Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, isless than 7.

Composition (B) according to the invention comprises one or moreoxidizing agents. More particularly, the oxidizing agent(s) are chosenfrom hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates orferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance alkali metal oralkaline-earth metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, andperacids and precursors thereof.

Preferably, the oxidizing agent is not chosen from peroxygenated salts.

Advantageously, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition (B) comprises hydrogen peroxide asoxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which ranges,more particularly, from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly between 0.5% and20% and more preferably still between 1% and 15% by weight relative tothe weight of the oxidizing composition.

The Other Adjuvants:

Compositions (A) and/or (B) and the ready-to-use composition of theprocess of the invention may also contain various adjuvantsconventionally used in compositions for dyeing or lightening the hair,such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymersor mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances;dispersants; film-forming agents; preserving agents; opacifiers andthickeners.

The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount, for each ofthem, of between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of thecomposition.

Compositions (A) and/or (B) and the ready-to-use composition of theprocess according to the present invention may also comprise one or moremineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, ormixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the process of the invention,composition (A) does not contain any clay. According to anotherparticular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) does not containany clay. Preferentially, the process of the invention or the oil-richdirect emulsion obtained from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B)does not use or contain any clay.

Compositions (A) and/or (B) and the ready-to-use composition of theprocess according to the invention may also comprise one or more organicthickeners.

These thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconutmonoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated carboxylic acidmonoethanolamide alkyl ether), polymeric thickeners such ascellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum andderivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin(xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), acrylic acid oracrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers and associativepolymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic regions and fatty-chainhydrophobic regions (alkyl or alkenyl containing at least 10 carbonatoms) that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combiningwith each other or with other molecules).

According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosenfrom cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum andderivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin(xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum) and acrylic acid oracrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers, and preferablyfrom cellulose-based thickeners in particular withhydroxyethylcellulose.

The content of organic thickener(s), if they are present, usually rangesfrom 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weightrelative to the weight of compositions (A) and (B) and of theready-to-use composition.

Compositions (A) and/or (B) and the ready-to-use composition accordingto the invention are media comprising at least water and optionally oneor more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.

Examples of cosmetically acceptable organic solvents that may bementioned include linear or branched and preferably saturatedmonoalcohols or diols, containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethylalcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol),neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such asbenzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; glycerol; polyols or polyolethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutylethers, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, forinstance propylene glycol, butylene glycol or dipropylene glycolmonomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially ofC₁-C₄, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutylether, alone or as a mixture.

The solvents, when they are present, generally represent between 1% and40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, andpreferably between 5% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition(s) containing them.

Preferably, compositions (A) and/or (B) and the ready-to-use compositionof the process of the invention contain water in a content ranging from10% to 70% and better still from 20% to 55% relative to the total weightof the composition.

Compositions (A) and/or (B) and the ready-to-use composition of theprocess according to the invention may be in various forms, such as inthe form of liquids, creams or gels, or in any other form that issuitable for dyeing keratin fibres, and especially human hair.

Advantageously, compositions (A) and/or (B) and the ready-to-usecomposition of the process according to the invention are in the form ofa gel or cream.

Preferably, the ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing ofcompositions (A) and (B) is in the form of a direct emulsion.

The pH of the composition after mixing compositions (A) and (B) of theprocess according to the invention is advantageously between 3 and 12,preferably between 5 and 11 and preferentially between 7 and 11, limitsinclusive.

It may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying orbasifying agents usually used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, oralternatively using standard buffer systems.

The alkaline agents are, for example, those described previously.

Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral ororganic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid,carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid or lacticacid, or sulfonic acids.

Method for Preparing the Direct Emulsion Obtained from the Mixing of (A)and (B):

The ingredients of the abovementioned compositions (A) and (B) and thecontents thereof are determined as a function of the characteristicsdetailed previously for the composition obtained from the final mixtureof (A) and (B) according to the invention.

It should be noted that the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) ispreferably a direct emulsion.

The composition (A)/composition (B) weight ratio in the mixturepreferably ranges from 0.2 to 2, better still from 0.3 to 1 and evenbetter still from 0.5 to 1.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture (A)and (B) is prepared by placing composition (A) and composition (B)together in a container and mixing them, preferentially vigorously, fora few seconds to a few minutes, before application to the keratinfibres. This mixing may be performed using a multi-compartment device orkit as defined below, one of the compartments of which is devoted to themixing of compositions (A) and (B) and may be shaken in a closed vesselentirely safely, until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained.

The ready-to-use composition obtained from the mixing of compositions(A) and (B) is such that, preferably, the content of fatty substanceranges from 25% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 65% by weightand better still from 30% to 55% by weight relative to the total weightof the mixture of compositions (A) and (B).

A subject of the invention is also a composition (A) in direct emulsionform comprising at least 30% by weight of oil(s) relative to the weightof composition (A), and also comprising:

-   -   i) at least one nonionic surfactant that is solid at room        temperature and at atmospheric pressure, with an HLB ranging        from 1.5 to 10;    -   ii) at least one basifying agent;    -   iii) optionally at least one additional surfactant other than        the solid nonionic surfactants i), which is preferably nonionic        with an HLB of greater than 10;    -   iv) optionally at least one dye.

Preferably, the composition does not comprise any chemical oxidizingagent.

Another subject of the invention is represented by a ready-to-usecomposition for dyeing or lightening human keratin fibres, which may beobtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of a composition(A) with a composition (B); the resulting mixture comprising at least25% by weight of fatty substance relative to the total weight of themixture of compositions (A) and (B); compositions (A) and (B) beingdefined previously.

-   -   In other words, this composition comprises at least 25% by        weight of a mixture of fatty substances comprising at least one        oil;    -   i) at least one nonionic surfactant that is solid at room        temperature and at atmospheric pressure, with an HLB ranging        from 1.5 to 10;    -   ii) at least one basifying agent;    -   iii) optionally at least one additional surfactant other than        the solid nonionic surfactants (i);    -   iv) optionally at least one dye; and        at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

II—The Multi-Compartment Devices:

The invention also relates to a device containing two or morecompartments, comprising:

-   -   in a first compartment, a composition (A) as defined previously;        and    -   in another compartment, a composition (B) as defined previously.

The example that follows serves to illustrate the invention without,however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE

Composition (A) in direct emulsion form below is prepared (the amountsare expressed on a weight basis, i.e. as g % of starting material inunmodified form):

Composition (A) % by weight (50/50 C₈/C₁₀)Alkyl polyglucoside [Oramix CG110 2 containing 60% AM] Steareth-2 2.25 Steareth-20 7.75 Liquidpetroleum jelly 60 Monoethanolamine 4.09 Sodium metabisulfite 0.45 EDTA0.2 1-β-Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene dihydrochloride 0.0171,3-Dihydroxybenzene 0.51 1-Methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene 0.531-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.077 Fragrance 0.6 Ascorbic acid 0.25 Water qs100 * Steareth-2: polyethylene glycol stearyl ether of the followingformula CH₃(CH₂)₁₆CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)₂OH. ** Steareth-20: polyethylene glycolstearyl ether of the following formula CH₃(CH₂)₁₆CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)₂₀OH.

Composition (B) below is prepared (the amounts are expressed on a weightbasis, i.e. as g % of starting material):

% Composition (B) by weightPoly[(dimethyliminio)-1,3-propanediyl(dimethyliminio)-1,6- 0.25hexanediyl dichloride] as an aqueous 60% solution (Mexomer PO fromChimex) Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, pentasodium salt as 0.15 anaqueous 40% solution Rapeseed acid amide containing 4 OE (Amidet N from1.3 Kao) Hydrogen peroxide 6 Glycerol 0.5 Cetylstearyl alcohol (Nafol1618S from Sasol) 6 Stearyl alcohol containing 2 OE (Brij S20-SO fromCroda) 5 Liquid petroleum jelly 20 Hydrogen peroxide stabilizer qsTetrasodium pyrophosphate decahydrate 0.03 Polydimethyldiallylammoniumchloride at 40% in water 0.5 (Merquat 100 from Nalco) Phosphoric acid qspH Water qs 100Compositions (A) and (B) are mixed together in a 1/1 ratio. The mixingis performed easily.

Mode of Application

The resulting mixture is then applied to locks of natural darkchestnut-brown hair (tone depth TD=3), at a rate of 10 g of mixture per1 g of hair. The application is easy and the product remains localizedat the site of application.

The mixture is left on at room temperature (25° C.) for 30 minutes.There is no unpleasant odour during the application.

The hair is then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.

Natural light chestnut-brown locks (TD=5) with good colour intensity areobtained.

1-19. (canceled)
 20. A process for dyeing or lightening keratin fibers, comprising: (i) extemporaneously mixing at the time of use (a) a composition (A) in direct emulsion form comprising: at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB ranging from about 1.5 to about 10, which is solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure; at least one basifying agent; optionally at least one additional surfactant other than the at least one nonionic surfactant; optionally at least one dye; and at least about 30% by weight of at least one oil, and (b) a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent; and (ii) applying the mixture to the keratin fibers; wherein the mixture comprises at least about 25% by weight of fatty substances relative to the total weight of the mixture (A)+(B).
 21. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one oil is present in an amount of at least about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
 22. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from oxyalkylenated and glycerolated nonionic surfactants.
 23. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from: oxyalkylenated (C₈-C₂₄)alkylphenols; saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched, oxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀ alcohols; saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched, optionally oxyalkylenated C₈-C₃₀ amides; esters of saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C₈-C₃₀ acids and of polyethylene glycols; optionally polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C₈-C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol; polyglycerolated esters of saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C₈-C₃₀ acids; saturated and unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils; C₈-C₃₀ alkyl glucosides; condensates of ethylene oxide, condensates of propylene oxide, and condensates of mixtures of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide; and oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated silicones.
 24. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from mono- and polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants.
 25. The process according to claim 24, wherein the mono- and polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants comprise oxyalkylene units are chosen from oxyethylene and oxypropylene units.
 26. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from solid nonionic surfactants having an HLB ranging from about 2.5 to about
 8. 27. The process according to claim 20, wherein the amount of the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
 28. The process according claim 20, wherein the at least one oil is chosen from C₆-C₁₆ lower alkanes; non-silicone oils of animal origin; glycerides of plant and synthetic origin; linear and branched hydrocarbons of mineral and synthetic origin comprising more than 16 carbon atoms; fluoro oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; non-salified liquid fatty acids; silicone oils; and mixtures thereof.
 29. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one oil is chosen from isododecane and mineral oils.
 30. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one basifying agent is chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates and bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
 31. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one basifying agent is chosen from organic amines.
 32. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one additional surfactant other than the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from nonionic surfactants having an HLB of greater than about
 10. 33. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one dye is chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
 34. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one dye is an oxidation dye chosen from oxidation bases and the addition salts thereof, optionally combined with at least one coupler chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers, and the addition salts thereof.
 35. The process according to claim 20, wherein composition (A) does not contain an oxidation base, coupler, or direct dye.
 36. The process according to claim 20, wherein the at least one oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, peracids, and precursors thereof.
 37. A composition (A) in direct emulsion form comprising: at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB ranging from about 1.5 to about 10, which is solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure; at least one basifying agent; optionally at least one additional surfactant other than the at least one nonionic surfactant; optionally at least one dye; and at least about 30% by weight of at least one oil.
 38. A ready-to-use composition in direct emulsion form resulting from mixing composition (A) according to claim 37 and a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
 39. A device comprising: (i) in a first compartment, a composition (A) comprising: at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB ranging from about 1.5 to about 10, which is solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure; at least one basifying agent; optionally at least one additional surfactant other than the at least one nonionic surfactant; optionally at least one dye; and at least about 30% by weight of at least one oil; and (ii) in a second compartment, a composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. 